Continued from part I . 1. Begging. I hate that shit , and it never lets up. Today I stepped out of my room, and in the 50-yard walk to school, no less than five people asked me for money. Four children and one adult. It's completely routine. "Hello, Thabo," says the person. "Hello," I say. " Mpha madi ," he says, holding out a hand, meaning "give me money." When I say no, often the person is angry. 2. Taxis and buses . The public transport I usually take is cramped, uncomfortable, usually miserably hot or cold, takes forever, and is often terribly dangerous. Drivers are sometimes equipped with well-maintained vehicles and drive conservatively, but more often they're aggressive maniacs zooming around in seat belt-less rusting contraptions held together with band-aids and bailing twine. On vacation, having my own rental car was a terrific feeling of freedom. 3. Teaching . This isn't to say that I have forever forswor