Jeffrey Goldberg is in Durango. He writes:
There aren't any hot chili peppers in the blistering sun, just a really crappy Best Western motel and a tourist railroad that runs to Silverton that seems like a nightmare to someone such as myself, who is always looking for an exit from crappy tourist adventures.City folk...sigh. The railroad is actually pretty cool--a genuine old-time narrow-gauge steam engine on the old route, which is spectacular and sorta scary. Get one of the open cars, and it's well worth the money. Also, you can use it as a taxi for a hike up into Chicago Basin, which is absolutely amazing. A bit crowded for a mountain valley, but it's tightly regulated and the mountain goats are very friendly.